Bike Light

Reading time ~2 minutes

Finally replacing the removable bikelight and mounting a real light. + Update from "Bike Carrier v2"


Bill of Materials

  1. 1,5mm² Speakercable
  2. USB 2.0 port for soldering on breadboard
  3. breadboard
  4. shrinking tube
  5. male and female wire connectors
  6. soldering iron

Finished product

As it´s the unwritten law of the internet to show the finished product first, here it is:

Bikelight_15


Planning phase

The whole idea about this project is to use my bike battery to power the lights. I wrote the FISCHER support a long time ago with the inquiry if the sell lights that are compatible with my bike. Unfortunately they don´t.
As I have an USB port on my bikes controller, my plan was to buy some lights which intended use was receiving current from a dynamo. The problem with that? Bike dynamos generate 6V @ 3 watt. And my USB port generates 5V @ 1 amp. I got my bench powersupply and hooked up the lights with 5V @ 1 amp - and they worked!


Manufacturing

With this new knowledge, my plan was to chop up an old USB cable, clip the data cables and use the two remaining wires.

Bikelight_4

But the wires were way too thin to solder them, so I built my own USB cable with breadboard, 1.5mm² speaker cable an USB port and a soldering iron. Which worked on the first try.

Bikelight_1 Bikelight_2 Bikelight_3 Bikelight_6 Bikelight_7 Bikelight_8

As I have a 3D printer, a housing for the connector had to be made.
Not shown here: I filled in all the cavities with hot glue to protect the electronics from the weather.

USB_Shell_1 USB_Shell_2 Bikelight_10 Bikelight_11 Bikelight_14

Now that the difficult part was done, all that had to be done was printing the remaining mounts and wire everything to the bike.

FrontlightClamp BacklightClamp Bikelight_9 Bikelight_12 Bikelight_13


Update from Bike Carrier v2

After almost 2000 km there a no visible damages or deformation on the 3D printed PETG parts.