Manufacturing my own dice
Just showing off
Text from top to bottom on each dice:
- Melting point
- Name of material
Modifying my newly added carrier for my E-Bike
3D printed PETG adapter for my mudguard.
A few weeks ago I built a new carrier - which didn't really work. It would have worked if I hadn't decided to add mudguards to my bike. The mudguards didn't really fit on my 29" wheel and 6" tire, so I had to mount them in a way which deviated from the manual. Front wheel got the zip tie treatment and the back wheel mounting points had to be modified.
As a result my self built carrier mount had to be removed.
The OEM mudguard mounting was just a piece of straight plastic. But for my use case it had to be angled 90°. After 4 revisions on the 3D printer it finally fit. The black marks on the prototype are areas which had to be modified between each iteration.
The carrier mount was a whole different problem. As a test I printed a mount from PETG which only held for 200km on my bike. Because the overall design worked quite well, I decided that im going to rebuild it from 6061 T3 aluminium, which I had laying around.
Sadly I cant tell you about the longevity of the parts, because I had to RMA the controller. Maybe I'll remember to write an update once the replacement parts arrive.
Adding a carrier to my new E-Bike
It does look okay, if you are standing far away. But for your trained "metal-worker-eye" it is hideous. But im treating it as an early prototype, meaning i´ll drive it for a couple of weeks and will adapt the new design to its current flaws. Let´s get to the build process.
I had the raw stock material laying around in my workshop. The carrier was bought from a local bike shop. It is an Cube ACID 29". One could ask: "why not use the included mounting option?". Easy answer: Because it does not fit with my 61mm (2.6") wide tyres.
The idea is as always: KISS.
Fortunately the aluminium tube had the exact diameter as the bought carrier, so no work had to be done there. Except cutting it to length.
The stock had to be squared and brought to dimensions. After that they need to be drilled three times for all the mounting points.
Because one part should yield two finished parts, I had to saw them apart. (No pictures, because the manual sawing sucks).
Fit check looked good, but there was one unaccounted problem.
The aluminium tube did end way too high for the forward facing mounting points.
So I had to manufacture an angled adapter, which did fail horrible. As you can see on the last picture I used a drill bit as a spacer. It worked wondeful for the first part, and failed spectacular on the second part. (No pictures because I threw a small rage fit). I was not in the mood to mill the parts again, because they took way too long on my small hobby mill, and they were way too over engineered.
New plan: make the parts simpler.
Because I dont have a lathe I had to mount my tool in the vice, and my part in the spindle. Dont judge me. It worked.
For a prototype it looks good, but im not happy with it. Im waiting for my mudguards to see how they fit my my carrier. Maybe I have to rethink the whole mounting options. But thats a problem for another time.
Last step was painting, which did not work really well. It was windy and I wanted to finish the project. Thats why I rushed the paint job.Its a prototype.
A new month, a new small restauration
I got my hands on this old “Röhm” three-jaw chuck for free. But it was in a really bad shape. The internal scroll plate was gunked up to a point where it was impossible to turn it.
Firsts step was the removal of the back cover plate.
Each pinion has a small stud bolt which helds it in place. Easily for me, they could be unscrewed without any problems.
The removal of each pinion was not as easy. I had to break out the hammer and some piece of delron to gently tap them out of the body. The interior is not as dirty as I thought.
All the parts where cleaned with generic brake cleaner and Loctite SF 7063.
I left them to soak for some minutes and got to work scrubbing all the parts with some coarse scotch brite.
While waiting for the parts to dry I went ahead and greased the scroll plate and the pinions with “chuck grease”.
Before assembling the chuck, I reworked the cover plate screws with some light filing and whetstones.
The restored chuck still looks a bit worn and old but works as a new one.
My first small restauration - a small paint job, 3D printing and a mechanical repair
The modelnumber is blacked off, so my best guess for the build date is somewhere in the 80s. But i could be completly off. After taking of the top cover, one could really see its age - dirty but still impressive.
I tried to remove the gauges from the back, but after a quick glance it seemed that its way too much work.
So after some sweaty minutes of fiddeling with the front cover I had success and could remove the pointer assembly. Sadly I dont have any pictures of it. Turning on the powersupply shows that my repair worked. The analog pointer showed the exact reading as the digital one.
Second to last step was a fresh coat of paint, but first the old flaky had to be removed. I applied a thick coat of paint stripper and let it soak for a couple of hours. After the time had passed I could simply scratch of the old paint with a plastic scraper.
A quick sanding, degreasing and painting session later the powersupply looked 20 years younger.
Now it was time to apply the 3D printed dust covers. Some small dabs of superglue did the trick. A quick assembly later and the powersupply looked like a new one.